deer

Skinny Conifers for Tight Spaces

The columnar habit of this Japanese plum yew (front right) does not obstruct entry into this small courtyard.

The columnar habit of this Japanese plum yew (front right) does not obstruct entry into this small courtyard.

Narrow side gardens are the reality for many suburban homes but die hard gardeners don’t need to sacrifice height and beauty just because their footprint is small. Look for trees, shrubs  and perennials that have a columnar shape without growing too wide. Even in larger gardens there is a need for ‘punctuation’ points and these skinny but interesting conifers might be just the answer (and the perfect excuse to visit the nursery).

'The huggable 'Wissel's Saguaro' false cypress

‘The huggable ‘Wissel’s Saguaro’ false cypress doesn’t block a path

 

Wissel’s Saguaro’ false cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Wissel’s Saguaro’) is a conifer with attitude! Blue-green ‘arms’ beg for a hug and it certainly deserves a little extra love for the way it adds structure, height, color and living sculpture to the narrowest of spaces. Enjoy a young plant in a container for a few years before transplanting it to a well-drained spot in the garden. In full sun it will grow~ 8′  in 10 years with an ultimate height of 18-20′ but just 2′ wide. Hardy in zones 6-8

 

 

 

'Blue Arrow' juniper. Photo credit; Monrovia

‘Blue Arrow’ juniper. Photo credit; Monrovia

Blue Arrow’ juniper (Juniperus virginiana ‘Blue Arrow’).  The dusky blue shade of this juniper makes it a colorful, evergreen addition to any garden – perfect for narrow screens or as garden accents. Use it where you’d love an Italian cypress but don’t have the climate. It grows to 12-15’ tall and 2’wide (although truthfully I’ve seen specimens a little wider than 3’). Deer resistant  and drought tolerant once established, this is hardy in zones 4-9.

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‘Empire’ false cypress has a subtle yellow variegation

 

Empire’ false cypress,  (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Empire’). A dwarf, columnar  conifer with a subtle yellow variegation; a beauty in containers or rock gardens. Typical height is just 4’ tall and 18” wide. Prefers full sun and is hardy in zones 4-9

'Snow White' Port Orchard cedar has white spring growth which matures to blue green (Left on photo)

‘Snow White’ Port Orchard cedar has white spring growth which matures to blue green (Left on photo)

 ‘Snow White’ Port Orchard cedar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Snow White’) has a natural teardrop shape with soft blue-green foliage which still retains a whisper of the creamy white spring growth in fall! This species is particularly susceptible to root rot and the fungus Phytophthora  if not in well-drained soil so look for those grafted onto disease resistant root stock e.g. Monrovia’s Guardian series. ‘Snow White’ grows to 6’ tall and 18” wide in 10 years, loves full sun and is hardy in zones 6-9

Thuja DeGroot's Spire arborvitae. Photo credit; Longfellow Garden Center

DeGroot’s Spire arborvitae. Photo credit; Longfellow Garden Center

 

 

‘DeGroot’s Spire’ arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘DeGroot’s Spire) is an improvement on the typical arborvitae of the ‘landscaper’s special’ variety. The rich dark green foliage takes on a purple cast in winter and has nicely twisted foliage which will tolerate light shearing making it a good hedging plant. It copes with wet soils, will grow in part shade or full sun and grows slowly to 20’ tall and 4’ wide. Cold hardy to zone 3 and happy to zone 8.

Columnar Scotch pine

Columnar Scotch pine adds a columnar focal point in a small garden

Columnar Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris ‘Fastigiata’) is a narrow form of the beautifully soft and fluffy Scotch pine. The twisted blue green needles make a beautiful backdrop for shades of silver or purple leaved plants. This is hardy in zones  3-7 (possibly zone 2) where it will grow 25-30’ tall but just 6-8’ wide (the species is 25-30’ wide). Part or full sun.

Japanese plum yew looks fabulous in a container

Japanese plum yew looks fabulous in a container

Columnar Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Fastigiata’) is one of the few conifers which thrives in part or even full shade. Its dark blue-green needles are longer that yew (Taxus sp.). I use it in shady containers where it slowly grows to about 4’ tall and 18” wide. In the landscape it is more likely to be 6’ tall and up to 4’ wide.. Hardy in zones 6-9

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A New Leaf

How can you resist such temptation? Why even try! Photo credit; Terra Nova Nurseries

 

Forget the resolutions to eat less and exercise more. Good ideas but hardly enough to get excited about. Now if we’re talking finding the hottest plants for 2013 THEN I get excited, especially if we’re talking great foliage.

Here are some of the best new leafy introductions to watch out for and there’s not a single calorie to worry about.

Yes the flowers are zingy but look at those leaves on 'Sparks Will Fly' begonia! Photo credit; Ball Horticultural

 

Begonia ‘Sparks will fly’

Now if this beauty had a flavor it would be rich bittersweet chocolate with hints of zesty orange  (can you gain weight if you just think about chocolate?) Those lickalicious deep blackish-green leaves set off firecracker flowers perfectly. Imagine this in a bright blue container. Not for the faint of heart but definitely top of my wish list for  shady spot this summer. Yum.

Wake up your containers with 'Sunrise Falls' trailing Heucherella. Photo credit; Terra Nova Nurseries

 

Heucherella ‘Sunrise Falls’

Does the world need any more Heucherella (or Heuchera come to that)? Well apparently we do because propagators like Terra Nova Nurseries keep growing them and we keep buying them ! So what has caught my eye this time? Sunrise Falls. Is that a yawn I hear? Well wake up because this is a trailing variety. I’ve used Redstone Falls and Yellowstone Falls in containers for the last two years and clients love them yet they can languish in the nurseries simply because their star status is unrealized. Plant these at the edge of a container and the large maple shaped leaves will tumble downwards for 2’ or so adding a bright splash of gold to a shady spot. Each leaf has dark red veins and  takes on burgundy tints in colder weather. Hardy in zones 4-9

Compact and curly, this new Leucothoe is on my wish list. Photo credit; www.thepottedgarden.co.uk

 

Leucothoe ‘Curly Red’. (Leucothoe axillaris)

I’ll let you into a secret. The coolest plants don’t even make it into the nursery. Seriously. When deliveries arrive you may notice the conspicuous absence of nursery staff. That isn’t because they all rush out to help the driver unload out of thoughtfulness. Oh no. They all want to see what goodies have just arrived and anything really new and unusual gets snagged before you even know it’s there! How do I know this? I’ve worked in a nursery. And this was why when I saw this new leucothoe in a container I was told they were  ‘sold out’. Yeah right. So go and hunt down this one, currently available from Monrovia. The twisted leathery leaves open orange-red and mature to dark green before turning purple-red in fall. Evergreen, deer resistant, great for the garden or pots and white spring flowers.  See why they were ‘sold out’? Part sun/part shade and hardy in zones 6-9.

Doubly fabulous - a great new Solomon's seal. Photo credit; Terra Nova Nurseries

 

Solomon’s seal ‘Double Stuff’ (Polygonatum odoratum)

It can be dangerous driving with a plant geek. Cars can make abrupt turns or screech to a halt at the merest hint of a nursery. Walking isn’t much better. One minute you’re chatting away to your friend and the next you realize you are completely alone. Your companion has disappeared like Alice down the rabbit hole but in this case they are likely to be found on hands and knees peering at something leafy. Beware shady encounters with Double Stuff – it will grab your attention like a giant bar of Toblerone. At 2′ tall at least you can stay standing up to appreciate this fabulous new foliage plant. Its cousin – the regular variegated Solomon’s seal, pales in comparison with this bold form. Arching red stems hold pairs of green and white variegated leaves joined in spring by dangling white bells. This perennial thrives in moist woodland locations where it will slowly spread by rhizomes. Hardy in zones 3-8

Check out the blog at www.fine-foliage.com

If you’d like to join me in a healthy diet of low calorie leaves this year I have good news for you. Starting today you can enjoy a new blog; Fine Foliage! Yes this is the companion blog to my new book, coauthored with Christina Salwitz. Consider it an appetizer. We’ll post a new recipe each week to inspire you to put foliage together in new ways. Tempted?

Meet you at the buffet table; www.fine-foliage.com

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Helleborus Gold Collection® – the best of the best

The magical colors of Merlin. Photo credit; Skagit Gardens

As the last of the colorful leaves fall from the trees and blue skies turn gray – especially here in Seattle, I find myself yearning for color. Spring is many months away – I need something NOW and the new Lenten roses (Helleborus) fill that gap beautifully.

Helleborus Gold Collection® grown by Skagit Gardens has revolutionized the hellebore world. Blooming at a younger age than older hybrids and offering an unbelievably long bloom time these really do earn their gold star status. Another breakthrough is that each of the large flowers faces outwards so that you can appreciate the beauty without getting on your hands and knees! They are also fuss free, deer resistant, evergreen and shade tolerant. What more can you ask? Here are three personal favorites.

Plant 'Pink Frost' where the light can stream through from behind to really appreciate its delicate beauty

Top of the list has to be Pink Frost (Helleborus x ballardiae Gold Collection® Pink Frost).  This award winning variety was introduced about three years ago and I absolutely love it. I use this massed in the landscape as well as in shade containers where they bloom from November to March. (Even though Skagit says these bloom  mid-January onwards I have found them to be covered in fat pink buds held high on their red stems in early November with flowering starting shortly thereafter). At any one time the silvery green foliage is adorned with flowers in shades of pink, burgundy and deep red.  Clumps spread nicely to form 2’ wide mounds.

Foliage and flowers are equally beautiful on Merlin. Photo credit; Skagit Gardens

The new kid on the hellebore block is Merlin (Helleborus x ballardiae Gold Collection® Merlin). I met this magical perennial recently at the Garden Writer’s Association symposium in Tucson and was struck by the outward facing blooms which opened pale pink, transitioning through rose before maturing to a rich cranberry. The foliage and stems are much darker than those of ‘Pink Frost’ and are truly spectacular. This would be worth growing as a foliage plant even if it never flowered! A little smaller than ‘Pink Frost’, this beauty grows about 15” wide.

Cinnamon Snow will add sparkle to the shade garden. Photo credit; Skagit Gardens

Cinnamon Snow (Helleborus x ballardiae Gold Collection® Cinnamon Snow) is one of the earliest to bloom which makes it a great addition when I am replanting containers in fall. Pink buds open creamy white, each petal brushed lightly with shades of rose and warm cinnamon. This delicious confection reminds me of ‘grown up’ ice cream – the sort you only buy as a treat when the children aren’t at home! The foliage is a dark green; a perfect backdrop that allows the flowers to really sparkle. This robust hellebore grows to 2’ wide and blooms from December – February according to the grower but once again I have found these to be in bud as early as late October.

How to grow

  • Rich, moisture retentive soil
  • Part or full shade (bloom best in morning sun and afternoon shade or dappled shade all day)
  • Mulch in summer to retain moisture
  • Trim off older leaves in spring to freshen it up.

Cinnamon Snow works equally well in containers and the landscape. Photo credit; Skagit Gardens

 

Companion ideas

Landscape – Mass at the base of a coral bark maple (Acer p. ‘Sango Kaku) to enhance the winter interest. The  Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’) could then  be added to form bright waterfalls of gold  from spring-fall, contrasting beautifully with the hellebore foliage

Containers – partner with pink hued coral bells (Heuchera) such as ‘Georgia Peach’ or ‘Berry Smoothie’ to repeat the pink tones and perhaps a green and white variegated grass to add finer texture. In this container a burgundy Cordyline and evergreen fern have been used as companions.

 

Which is your favorite hellebore? Plant all three and you’ll have color from now until March!

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Great Bulbs for Fall Containers

Photo credit; tinywhitedaisies.tumblr.com

It’s a bittersweet moment when you have to brace yourself to pull out all that lush summer growth, knowing that the replacements will inevitably look puny by comparison. I’ve just grappled with yards of overly – exuberant sweet potato vine, cutting back its long chartreuse tendrils of heart shaped leaves, digging deep in the containers to find the funky purple tubers. Some leaves were scorched by unseasonably late hot sun, others were limp from chilly nights. They would look reasonable for another week or so but my own schedule dictated that today was The Day for changing out the pots.

Ironically containers planted for fall and winter have to provide us with almost 8 months of color (late September to mid- May) as opposed to summer pots which strut their stuff from May until Mid-September (or late October if you’re a procrastinator). So how can we get a serious color punch without our favorite summer annuals?

Spring bulbs are the answer. By tucking them into containers as you are planting pots this fall you are burying treasure which will be revealed in a few months’ time.

Shade containers

Although most bulbs need 6 or more hours of direct sun to bloom  well there are a few that will perform satisfactorily in shadier spots.

Snowdrops are one of the earliest bulbs to bloom. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

 

Snowdrops are perfect for adding a little sparkle. There are a couple of different species typically available but I usually select Galanthus elwesii  which is taller at 12” than the 6”  common snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis). Plant at least five clustered together.

Winter aconite is as pretty in a container as it is in the garden. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

 

 

 

 

 

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) is a fabulous deer resistant bulb that can be used to naturalize in sunny or partially shaded gardens. Its bright buttercup-like flowers add a lovely splash of color at the edge of a shady container but at just 3” tall be sure that the adjacent plants will not hide these dainty beauties.

Jeanne d'Arc crocus is pure white with rich orange stamens.

 

 

Crocus prefer lots of sun but if your containers get full morning sun they should still bloom nicely. Typically available in shades of purple, yellow and white it’s easy to find something to work with your color scheme. Look for the larger flowered varieties such as Jeanne d’Arc (white), Pickwick (lilac and white stripes) or Flower Record (deep purple).

 

Sun containers

I usually look for dwarf varieties of sun loving bulbs.

Tete a Tete dwarf daffodils repeat the yellow colors of the grass and pansy

Daffodils (Narcissus)– the petite Tete a Tete are well known and are great value since each bulb has multiple flower stalks. The slightly taller February Gold and Jetfire with its orange trumpet are also great candidates since their flower size won’t overpower the other container plants.

Fragrant Erlicheer Narcissus. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

 

 

 

 

 

 

For a white color scheme the fragrant Thalia is a good choice or Erlicheer which has double white flowers with a hint of buttery yellow and also smells wonderful.

Juan tulip. Photo credit; The Plant Expert

 

 

 

 

 

Tulips – there are many shorter varieties of tulips with attractive leaves – an important consideration for container garden design. Many of these also have multiple flowers per bulb so you get a lot of color from a small amount of space. Red Riding Hood (red flowers with purple striped leaves). Calypso (orange-red flowers edged with yellow and a black base with purple striated foliage) and Juan (orange with a yellow base and purple mottled leaves) are three of my favorites.

Princess Irene are always on my shopping list for fall containers

Where greater height is needed Princess Irene is my #1 choice. Rich reddish-orange flowers with a purple flare are set off by the blue-green foliage. This partners well with dark foliage or lime green accents.

Gorgeous ruffled peony type flowers of the tulip Foxtrot. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

 

 

 

 

 

For a softer color scheme Foxtrot is stunning with double peony type blooms in varying shades of rose or New Design has pretty pink flowers and green leaves with white margins. Don’t be afraid to cut off a few leaves if they spoil the look of the overall container design.

 

 

 

The richly hued Woodstock hyacinth. Photo credit; Bissett Nursery corp

 

 

Hyacinths – a single hyacinth can perfume a room so imagine what a few in a container can do! With colors from white, pink, blue to purple and peach there’s bound to be one that is just right. Woodstock has long been a personal favorite with its rich burgundy color, closely followed by the hot pink Jan Bos.

JS Dijt iris seems almost velvety. Photo credit; Central Texas Gardener blog

 

 

 

 

Dwarf iris (Iris reticulata) are a less common choice yet at 6” tall they are perfect for containers. I especially like the midnight blue JS Dijt with a central yellow flash when paired with golden foliage or even yellow pansies. Pixie is similar but a little lighter.

Grape hyacinths (Muscari) are also a welcome change, their strappy foliage having a grass like appearance at the edge of a container while the clusters of grape-like flowers in shades of blue or white are pretty.

 

Design considerations

Purple crocus have grown up through a layer of pansies to add a fresh spring look

  • Match the color of your bulbs to the overall color scheme of your container design for a designer look.
  • Height – keep shorter bulbs to the front of your containers
  • Tuck bulbs in between permanent plants or even underneath finely rooted plants such as pansies. The spring shoots  will squeeze through and to the side of these easily.
  • Plant bulbs under seasonal color spots such as chrysanthemums or asters  to give a second tier of color. Ideally remove these perennials when they have died down and gently backfill the hole with a little extra soil to cover the exposed bulbs, although this is not essential.

Tulips and grape hyacinths keep purple coral bells company in this design. Credit; Fine Gardening magazine

 

Planting tips

Add organic fertilizer under the bulbs when planting to promote root growth.If your garden is popular with squirrels you may want to consider adding chicken mesh or a special bulb cage to protect the bulbs.What about a container with tiers of bulbs that will bloom sequentially in spring? Try the lasagna planting method.

My favorite bulb growers – not only do they have excellent quality and size bulbs they are wonderful people. Can’t do better than that.

Brent and Becky’s Bulbs

 

 

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Gaura – a whirl of tiny butterflies

A soft haze of whirling butterflies dances around a whitebarked Himalayan birch.

Movement is important in a garden. It lends an informal atmosphere and softens otherwise stiff plantings. Grasses are often used for this, especially taller varieties but a few perennials are also perfectly suited for the job and one of the best is whirling butterflies (Gaura lindheimeri). The common name is a perfect description for these fluttering white flowers which are in constant movement on tall wiry stems. (Other common names include wand flower and bee blossom).

'Pink Fountain' grows to 2' and is hardy in zones 6-9. Photo credit; southern growers

The species has white flowers, flushed with pink which emerge all summer long from soft pink buds giving a hazy bicolor effect. In form it resembles a large lavender with a basal clump of narrow foliage in mid green from which rises a fountain of 3-4’ flowering stems. Each plant easily fills a 3’ diameter space – good value from a $10 plant! However there are many other cultivars now available in various sizes and colors. Here is just a sampling;

  • ‘Passionate Rainbow’; variegated burgundy, pink, creamy white and gold foliage, mid pink flowers, upright habit, 2’. Zones 7-9
  • ‘Siskiyou Pink’; green foliage, pink flowers, fountain, 2-3’.  Zones 5-9
  • ‘Crimson Butterflies’; a recent hybrid from ‘Siskiyou Pink’ with burgundy foliage, deep pink flowers, upright habit, dwarf at 2’. Zones 5-10
  • ‘Dauphine’; the giant! Green foliage, pink and white flowers, 5-7’ fountain. Zones 5-9
Companions

At first glance whirling butterflies may seem ideally suited to a casual cottage garden and indeed I have used them that way. Their delicate appearance softens stiffer companions such as coneflowers (Echinacea sp.) and the soft pink and white color scheme is beautiful, lasting for many months. In such an environment it is a ‘mingler’.

'Magical Fantasy' weigela is enhanced by the dreamy pink and white backdrop of the similarly colored whirling butterflies

In my current garden I have used it to surround a whitebarked Himalayan birch (Betula utilis var. jacquemontii) which enhances the already stunning white tree bark. These adaptable perennials also make a great background plant for the green and white variegated ‘Magical Fantasy’ weigela (Weigela florida ‘Kolsunn’)Unlike older cultivars this weigela has crisp white margins to its leaves – perfect for combining with whirling butterflies. Tubular pink flowers on the shrub further strengthen the association with either white or pink cultivars of the perennial.

Silver, purple and blue foliage or flowers also form easy companions.  Blue ‘Rozanne’ geranium works well as the two weave in and out of one another and billowing ‘Silver Mound’ wormwood (Artemisia schmidtiana ‘Silver Mound’) adds a shimmery touch.

Silver and purple make easy companions

Shorter cultivars are ideal for using as the ‘thriller’ in container plantings or even in a hanging basket. For both of these designs I rely heavily on good foliage so find the deep pink or variegated foliage forms of whirling butterflies especially useful.

What do they need to thrive? Very little. They are drought tolerant and deer resistant – two of my top priorities. Mine have barely had any water this summer and look amazing. Be careful not to add excessive mulch or compost around the crowns and avoid overly rich soil which stays wet in winter; just average, well drained soil is fine. Other than that, full sun and a chair nearby to enjoy the steady drone of bees which get drunk daily on the pollen!

This backlit smoke bush adds 'substance' to the airy flowers

One key point to remember is about pruning. Being a woody perennial it retains a twiggy structure after the leaves fall in autumn. Do not cut this down. Wait until spring and look to see where the uppermost buds are on the stems and cut just above those. The twigs help protect the crown during the winter. I find that there is usually fresh basal growth in spring as well so the plant quickly regains its former size.

Some cultivars seem to self-seed more than others but extras are easy to pull up. there is no need to deadhead.

How many do you have room for?

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12 Months Later

A tapestry of colors and textures - August 2012

Is it really only that long?

I suspect like many gardeners I’m better at writing a To Do list than celebrating the Ta Da moments. I’m so busy worrying about the deer munching on the end of an elderberry branch (and yes they do eat elderberries), that I forget to look around and take in the big picture. Fact is we’ve come a long way.

Who says deer don't eat elderberries - mine even eat RICIN!!

The real beginning was three years ago; October 30th 2009 to be exact, when we moved to this modest one storey house sitting on 5 flat acres. I could write a book on the various adventures we’ve had as we’ve renovated the house. Dead mice in the walls, frogs croaking under the house, termite eaten woodwork and a vole who suddenly appeared in the bathroom with me, arriving by way of the heating vent in the floor. Eek!

August 2011 - weeds were gone and the cabin moved but that was about it

 

 

 

 

But this is a garden blog. You’ve heard me say before that the best feature in the landscape was a huge dead tree. That’s because the house was being swallowed by Bishop’s weed, as was the front garden . There was a nice long border to one side of the property but it was only 3′ deep before dissolving into cottonwoods, reed canary grass and an interesting blend of beer cans and chunks of concrete.

Besides that the land was a seasonally mosquito ridden swamp. I even tried spraying most of the 5 acres with garlic the first summer …, let’s just say that wasn’t my most shining moment. Still plenty of mosquitoes, no witches and my son threatening to leave home since I’d thoughtfully sprayed around his window. Oops

So how and where was I going to create my dream gardens?

Island border

Around the dead tree. Except that the land around it was a less than attractive tapestry of blackberries and weeds. It was also a swamp from November through the end of June.

I’ve told part of this story before. You can read how we addressed the drainage, moved the cabin and built the arbor by following the links. 12 months ago we had just unloaded 100 yards of topsoil and planted our first tree.

Here it is today.

August 2012. The cabin is now nestled into the (young) landscape

 

Paths are laid, a bench installed, boulders moved (with great difficulty) from behind the barn, and layers of wonderful color.

A simple wooden bench will soon be shaded by the golden locust tree and backed by 'Karl Foerster' grasses. If the deer leave the elderberry alone that will also be part of the backdrop.

 

 

 

 

 

Some things thriving, others not so much as we discovered a few spots around the perimeter became catchment areas for winter rains.

 

 

 

 

And there’s still a lot of bare soil – not the Karen style! However we have included plenty  of four season interest and used drought tolerant, (relatively) deer resistant plants.

Warm sunset shades predominate. This golden conifer shines like a beacon all year

 

 

I’ve also had great fun playing with color combinations.

Vibrant orange Crocosmia around the paperbark maple accents the trees rich mahogany peeling bark yet doesn't obscure it in winter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Front garden

August 2011 - the front dust bowl...

12 months ago this was barren. Every single tree, shrub, perennial and bulb had been removed. Those which were riddled with Bishop’s weed were disposed of. Others were washed to bare roots then quarantined in a corner of the vegetable garden until I was sure they were clean. We had installed a new path and patio at this point but sat sipping our wine surrounded by….nothing.

August 2012. Today it is a medley of soft, airy textures

 

Now it’s a tranquil space. Soothing shades of blue, white and silver predominate. The air is fragrant with daphne, lavender and thyme. Sounds of bees mingle with those of  hummingbirds and small birds splashing in the fountain.

 

The white bark of the birch tree is emphasized by the haze of white flowers

 

 

The dancing white flowers of ‘whirling butterflies’ (Gaura sp.) sway gently in the slightest breeze forming fleeting partnerships with silver wormwood (Artemesia) and periwinkle blue ‘Rozanne’ geranium.

Not that it’s perfect. Some lavender plants died. Voles ate some plants and cut worms others.

I thought I'd be 'safe' with sedums - obviously not!

 

Then there are the sedums which have either been eaten by very tall rabbits or our deer – large hoof prints would suggest the latter.

Still despite those little hiccups and a few remaining bare patches  we are finally proud to share the progress with friends. It looks like a well-loved home nestled into a thoughtfully designed landscape. There’s more to do but that’s OK. For now we can at least say…Ta Da!

 

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My Top 5 Survivors

 

Two outstanding introductions for 2013 - Superbells 'Lemon Slice' and Luscious 'Berry Blend' Lantana

When I test plants I really test them! No primadonnas for me thank you very much; they have to perform well under ‘average’ conditions without excessive primping.

You see I plant hundreds of containers every season for my clients and myself. Everything I use has to perform 100% – there’s no room for slackers. I provide premium potting soil, a single dose of slow release granular fertilizer (e.g. Osmocote), regular water and sun or shade as needed. After that the plants have to strut their stuff to convince me they are good enough to tell you about!

Considering all that I think it’s pretty brave of Proven Winners to ask me to trial some of their 2013 introductions! They know I won’t just return the requested questionnaire at the end of the season; they’ll get emails and/or phone calls from me as the season progresses if I am concerned, disappointed or thrilled! Probably far more information than they want really but I’m doing this for YOU not Proven Winners. I want to be able to truthfully recommend to my readers those plants which I have shown perform well under typical gardening conditions. Tough love and all that.

So get pen and paper handy as I have some real winners that made the Karen List and that you’ll want to buy next season.

I know it's hard to believe but this is just ONE Superbells 'Lemon Slice' - and it wraps around the other side of the pot!

Superbells ‘Lemon Slice’ is the #1 winner. It has coped with monsoon rains, temperatures swinging from barely 50’ to over 90’ and it hasn’t missed a beat. A single plant from a 4” pot planted in June now measures well over 2’ across! It has a perfect compact habit which means no elbows or knees sticking out, just a dense mass of flowers and foliage hugging the sides of the container. Actually you can barely see the foliage (or the container) as it is smothered in the vibrant yellow flowers each ‘sliced’ with white like a candy. My only issue is that I wish I hadn’t put quite so many other plants in the same pot as they are being swallowed! Fabulous with other citrus colors but would also be fun with purple or a romantic white and yellow scheme.

Supertunia 'Watermelon Charm' revels in heat. Partnered here with Sanvitalia.

Supertunia ‘Watermelon Charm’ nearly didn’t make the list – as the Proven Winners rep knows! You see Supertunias are a little closer to a ‘real’ petunia than the Superbells. Think of Supertunias as the direct children and Superbells as cousins. Now frankly I can’t stand ‘real’ petunias and haven’t used them for years. They get sticky, need deadheading, attract aphids and turn to mush after rain, which we have more than our fair share of in Seattle. So I had mixed feelings when my goodie box included this Supertunia. Whereas I truthfully still prefer the Superbells I have ultimately been so impressed with this Supertunia that I asked Proven Winners if they could send me some more for a magazine photo shoot I was preparing for!

Here’s what I like – vibrant color and masses of good sized flowers which almost completely hides the foliage. It has a nice tidy habit, hugging the container without getting gangly and one small 4” potted plant now covers an area at least 2’ x 2’ so that’s a lot of punch for less than $5! It thrives in the heat and despite recommendations from Proven Winners to the contrary, it does nicely with my single shot of Osmocote. (Sorry folks but I am NOT going to water every other week with a liquid feed even if the grower tells me to. Life is too short and I’m too busy!) So why am I only giving it a 9.5/10? After heavy rain it looks a little disheveled – by my standards at least. Whereas it generally doesn’t need deadheading there were a lot of very sad, soggy flowers that simply couldn’t be ignored after several days of rain. Also as the flowers age the petals can become translucent in patches which can spoil the overall appearance. So, if you live in areas which don’t suffer from excessive rain this would be a fabulous addition to your container gardens but for Seattle I’m going to stick to the Superbells.

The delicate yellow eye of Luscious 'Pina Colada' Lantana works beautifully with the sun tolerant 'Spitfire' coleus

Lantanas are annuals in our zone 7 so are a treat for summertime containers. My experience thus far has been that although they offer great color and love hot summers the flowering seems to come in waves even with regular deadheading. Not so with the two latest introductions from Proven Winners – Luscious Berry Blend and Luscious Pina Colada.

Berry Blend adds multicolored fun to designs with raspberry, lemon and orange flowers. At the other end of the spectrum luscious Pina Colada is a soft white with the merest hint of lemon for warmth. What has really impressed me about both of these is that they have bloomed non-stop since June and have always had LOTS of flowers. They have also handled competition remarkably well from neighboring plants. Rain or shine, 50’s or 90’s these are the best lantana I have ever grown.

Delicate in appearance maybe but Cleome 'Senorita Blanca' is one tough lady

My last winner is a surprise even to me. It is Cleome ‘Senorita Blanca. This new compact variety of spider flower has been bred with container gardeners in mind but I had a gap in the front border where I needed something about 2.5’ tall and wide with white flowers – so that’s where they went in June. Today they are a mass of white flowers brushed with lavender which makes pairing with deeper purples such as ‘Concorde’ barberry an easy partnership. Drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant, disease free, unbelievably floriferous, good cut flowers, thornless, sterile,  – and did I say really drought tolerant? I’ve only  watered them twice since June! I’m not usually one for adding annuals into the landscape but with a young garden there are temporary gaps to fill. I’ll be buying at least a dozen of these next year. Plant them in groups of 3 as I did to get the best look.

Successful container gardening means using top quality potting soil and top quality plants. Such plants have been grown in premium soil to begin with so are well rooted, bushy and healthy. My clients expect the best, and that’s what I give them. I have my favorite nurseries and my favorite growers – places and people I know won’t let me down. In fact they make me look good when the plants thrive! Proven Winners really have been proven to be a winner by people like me putting them through real life tests so that you can try something new next year and have confidence that you will love the results.

Proven Winners provided me with the plants mentioned here. They have not paid me – nor bribed me – to write this article! And despite the fact that I only gave their Supertunia 9.5/10 I think they are still talking to me.….

All varieties shown will be available spring 2013

 

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Priceless parsnips

Fit for the Prince of parsnips - our new vegetable garden

 

“there are perfectly good stores where you can buy parsnips you know”…………

…….so commented  a  dear friend who couldn’t quite wrap her head around why we were spending many months and more than a few dollars to construct the Taj Mahal of vegetable gardens.

If you’ve been following this blog for a while you may recall my War of the Parsnips  in which I vowed to thwart the Duvall vole population from decimating my treasured vegetable – a family favorite for Thanksgiving dinner. I then made the mistake (according to my long suffering husband) of going on a garden tour and seeing the perfect design for a wildlife proof vegetable enclave.

Somehow it all begins with big machinery!

It began with a bobcat – the sort that churns up the grass big time, not the wild animal variety which would have created less of a mess. Trenches were dug to lay drainage pipe (we have ‘water issues’) and hardware cloth – that sturdy, fine metal mesh which keeps out burrowing critters, which was sunk about 3’ deep around the perimeter.

A steel mesh was buried underground to thwart the voles then pinned onto the insides of the lower boards

The two fences are spaced 5' apart which allows for various bed/path widths

 

Next was the fence itself – the ‘boing-boing’ fence as it has been nicknamed. You see we’re in deer country and deer easily ‘boing’ over anything less than an 8’ fence to munch on the other side. However the vegetable garden was already almost equal in square footage to our modest home so the last thing we wanted was a really tall enclosure which would dwarf the house in height too. So we have two 5’ fences, 5’ apart, the principle being that deer won’t jump when they’re not sure they have clearance on the other side. In otherwise they can’t ‘boing-boing’ in or over a 5’ span.

As for fencing material we chose hog wire galvanized panels that have smaller holes at the bottom and bigger holes at the top. Rabbits can’t get through the small holes and deer can’t get their muzzles through the bigger ones. A solid 12” base stops moles getting in at ground level. Actually numerous mole hills around the perimeter suggest that several have tried and got a serious headache.

Since the gate at each end is only 'single', the pergola adds the necessary additional height to prevent the deer jumping

 

 

 

The gates match the fence panels but have a pergola overhead – again keeping deer out but also giving me somewhere to add honeysuckle and of course looking great.

Inside the enclosure the raised beds are 12” high and 18” or 3’ deep depending upon their intended use. Each panel is screwed together so if one board rots it can easily be replaced without taking the whole box apart. Raspberry beds are 3’ wide for example but 18” is plenty for leeks and onions. The main pathways are a comfortable wheelbarrow width of 4’ with 2’ for smaller paths.

All the main beds are 3' wide - easy to reach from either side.

 

The only thing that isn’t working well? The vegetables! I hesitated to post this blog since I can’t show you a flourishing kitchen garden. Rather most beds are empty (we’ve only just finished construction) and the few veggies look pretty pathetic compared to other years thanks in part to our terrible spring. However it does mean you can see the structure which is perhaps more helpful.

One great benefit of the design is that I have plenty of sturdy fencing on which to espalier apples, train sweet peas or grow beans without additional frames.

Each panel frames a view - here our meadow. The sturdy panels make training vines easy.

 

The only thing left to do is add some gravel around the perimeter to keep the grass back and maintain a tidy edge. A bigger budget might allow for bricks or steel.

 

 

 

 

So while farmers markets and organic produce sections in the stores might offer parsnips for sale, nicely scrubbed and ready to cook, our parsnips are just minutes from garden to table and you’ll have to believe me when I tell you their flavor is superior to  any I’ve bought.

 

Thanks to the talents of my amazing husband  the voles can go hungry this year.

 

 

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Poppy Love

 

'Hungarian blue' breadseed poppy. Photo credit; Bill Pusztai

Summer has finally arrived in Seattle, beginning as it always does on July 5th. I therefore didn’t take much convincing when my husband suggested a day out. Even less so when he suggested we visited some of my favorite nurseries on the Kitsap peninsula!

Sunscreen, camera and a large tarp were loaded in no time. (Actually I always keep a large tarp in the car for those chance encounters with a tree or two. Rather like others keep Kleenex handy in case of a sneeze – I keep a tarp ready in case of plants.)

'Tasmania' offers pure white petals with a delicate lavender thumbprint

First stop was Dragonfly Farms Nursery in Kingston, an eclectic treasure trove where you’ll find anything from a really unusual plant to a totally funky art piece. The only thing that never surprises me is the owner Heidi Kaster who is always smiling and excited to show me her latest discoveries and creations. It was in one of her display gardens that I had the inspiration for this post. Splashes of hot pink and bright red drew me down to a border in the distance which on closer inspection turned out to be a wonderful haphazard self-sown abundance of annual opium poppies also known as breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum).

My only real success with annual poppies has been by accident. I noticed a seedling growing in our vegetable garden last year; even my son could tell it wasn’t a cabbage. It was in a most inconvenient place but curiosity got the better of me so I let it grow. In no time at all huge feathered petals with brazen red and white markings reached for the sky like a gaudy parrot. A poppy with serious attitude!

Parrot meets poppy - my rogue seedling discovered in the vegetable garden

 

In the past when I’ve tried to grow opium poppies from seed I think I must have trampled on them or inadvertently weeded out the seedlings having forgotten where they were. Yet as I looked at Heidi’s poppies all sorts of fun plant combinations started coming to mind. What about a mass of the lilac/pink poppies in front of a black lace elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’)? The color of the papery poppy petals would echo that of the elderberry flowers while the darker poppy throat would repeat the color of the shrub foliage itself.

A haze of bronze fennel created the backdrop for these poppies. I suspect this was the 'Lauren's grape' hybrid

A few miles down the road we stopped to photograph plum colored poppies which were planted against a feathery curtain of bronze fennel and looked stunning. To one side my favorite smoke bush ‘Grace’ (Cotinus coggygria) had been added to make a sultry trio. I would be tempted to add some silver wormwood (Artemisia sp.) into the mix to prevent sultry turning somber but if ever a poppy could look sexy, this one did.

The lavender fields are getting ready for their Provencal display so we decided to pull in and visit one of the farms near Sequim before the crowds descend. Among the billowing mounds of blue was a proud stand of bright red poppies. I was torn between thinking they spoiled the uniformity of the lavender and enjoying their rebelliousness! Maybe they just needed a companion planting of white daisies to make a patriotic statement?

An infiltrator or a planned partnership?

It’s too late to sow seeds this year but it’s never too late to dream. As you visit gardens and nurseries this summer start to photograph these inspirational moments and jot down a few notes on how you might incorporate them into your garden next season.

For me this also means deciding how I’m going to avoid weeding them out AGAIN! A single stick obviously hasn’t worked so perhaps a series of fluorescent sticks crisscrossed with string? Has anyone got any better ideas to share?

Try mixing 'Lauren's grape' poppy with lupins and phlox for an old fashioned medley. Photo credit; Annie's Annuals

 

Cultivation details

Choose a spot in full sun with well-drained soil. Scatter seed thinly onto the soil in early spring. Water in well but do not cover the seed. Use slug bait (maybe that’s what I forgot?) Thin seedlings as directed. (Poppies are deer  resistant!)

Resources

Annie’s annuals

One Stop Poppy Shoppe

Renee’s gardens

 

Oh and in case you’re wondering, yes I did come back with a few plants – or six!

 

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Getting Black and Blue – without injury!

Scabious 'Mariposa violet' found a new home in front of a black bugbane. 'Butterfly blue' would be even more stunning.

I found myself wandering around the garden yesterday with a wheelbarrow full plants in need of a new home – a  lonely blue star juniper, a beautiful blue scabious just starting to bloom and several sections of a blue hosta. The question was, where should I put them? Sound familiar?

I spend a lot of my time helping homeowners who have done too much plunking over the years. You know – plunk it here, plunk it there. There’s a hole – plunk.

My philosophy is simple – have a reason for putting plant A with plant B (and “because there was a space” does NOT count as a reason!)

Blue is an easy color to blend into the garden, looking as much at home with delicate pastels as with jewel tones. I especially like to see it being used to break up what can easily become a monotonous purple and chartreuse color scheme. Add a little blue in there and suddenly it seems fresh.

I wanted something different and I found it; BLACK and blue. I’ll spare you the obvious puns about bruises.

One of those gardening 'Aha' moments when I noticed what a great pair black and blue made

I first noticed how well black and blue went together when I planted blue bellflowers (Campanula persicifolia) in front of a stand of inky black bugbane (Cimifuga racemosa ‘Hillside black beauty). The bellflower brought out the blue tones within the black foliage while the flower color seemed more vibrant when seen against its dark companion. It became one of those gardening ‘Aha’ moments.

So the scabious and hostas got tucked in next to a mature group of bugbane and my blue star juniper is going to front a stand of ‘Passionate’ cape fuchsias (Phygelius recta) which has remarkable black stems and  dark greeny-black foliage topped by orange fuchsia-like flowers which already have us on the hummingbird radar for miles around!

 

As with any plant combination, start with great foliage and you’re half way there.

 

Ideas for shady sites.

Clockwise; 'Blackie' sweet potato vine, hosta, black mondo grass and 'Blue shadow' fothergilla

Include some of these in containers for close-up appreciation; ‘Midnight blue’ wishbone flower (Torenia sp.) is a favorite of mine and looks wonderful mingling with black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’).

Clockwise; woodland phlox , 'Obsidian' coral bells, 'Blue star' columbine and 'Black magic' coleus

Other shade loving black and blue plants include hydrangeas, the tropical looking elephant ears (Colocasia esculenta) and the wonderful  spring bulbs such as bluebells, Camassia and anemone blanda

Ideas for sunny sites

 

Clockwise; black bamboo, delphinium, Aeonium 'Zwartkopf', 'Sapphire blue' sea holly

Foliage and flowers are obvious options but consider planting a stand of black bamboo in a large blue container.

Clockwise; 'Sisikiyou' blue fescue, pansy. 'Rozanne' geranium and 'Spilled wine' weigela

There are many other black and blue options for sun including;

The shrub ‘Black lace’ elderberry (Sambucus racemosa), annual blue fanflower (Scaevola sp.)  and perennial blue speedwells (Veronica sp.)

Solo performers

 

'Black and blue' sage brings an intense color punch to sunny gardens. Imagine this rising from a carpet of black mondo grass

Then there are a couple of plants who have it all in one tidy package. ‘Black and blue’ sage is an annual in my area but worth including for all the hummingbirds it attracts.

‘Caradonna’ sage is a more reliable perennial and carries rich blue flowers along the length of its tough black stems. It blooms throughout the summer unlike some other varieties. All sages are deer resistant – a bonus for my garden. Still talking to the exploding rabbit population about their diet…

 

 

'Black scallop' bugleweed has wonderful crinkled black leaves and deep blue spring flowers - a favorite evergreen perennial for damp shade

 

 

There are also several varieties of  bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) which are almost black such as ‘Black scallop’ and ’Metallica’. In spring the foliage is studded with short fat spikes of blue flowers. Bugleweed loves moist conditions in partial shade. I am using it as a groundcover on my stream banks in the hope of suppressing weeds but it’s also a popular addition in shade containers.

 

What’s your favorite black and blue?

 

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