Stark Silhouettes – a lesson from the desert

Oct 22, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 15 Comments Tags: cacti, combinations, design, drought tolerant, foliage, succulents

I had the opportunity recently to visit Tucson, Arizona and was fascinated to see a landscape so different from the lush Pacific Northwest. Instead of ferns and mossy glades beneath towering evergreens the arid desert landscape was filled with cacti, succulents and other drought tolerant specimens piercing the rocky terrain.

Walking around the hotel grounds offered a lesson in landscape design in itself!

To some this stark landscape seemed barren yet I found the juxtaposition of the different architectural shapes fascinating. When I design gardens and plant combinations I pay great attention to the details of foliage to create a layered tapestry. I also love to work with color – high contrast and monochromatic being my two favorite schemes. The desert plantscape was an exciting study in monochromatic planting with shades of silvery-green and steel blue predominating and it was also a lesson in appreciating the structural quality of each plant.

Dramatic spires of cacti stand out in sharp relief against the vast blue Arizona sky

While in Tucson I heard a wonderful presentation by Scott Calhoun, a local and highly regarded landscape designer on Hot Gardens – designing in the south west. Whereas I am often asked to create a sense of enclosure, a hidden oasis for my clients, Scott designs for a sense of openness and transparency. He aims to mimic the surrounding landscape in his gardens, framing views of the surrounding mountains. It is a principle called ‘borrowed landscape’ where the garden seems to extend into the distance and boundaries are obscured.

A simple vignette of an Agave against a weathered boulder draws attention to the ground plane

Rather than creating screening he looks for ways to add stark silhouettes against the sky – emphasizing the wider landscape or vista. Closer at hand he creates vignettes of plant material, boulders wildflowers and native grasses.

Stunning in its simplicity. The powdery blue Agave highlights the blue wall with a bold golden yellow bench providing high contrast.

My favorite trip was to a wonderful private garden where the homeowner had adapted these principles to an urban environment. He had built the most beautiful stucco walls, each painted a different bold color and then set the plants against this unadorned backdrop. Sunlight cast shadows on these walls creating a sense of greater depth allowing the form of each cactus to be silhouetted without distraction from background plants.

This monochromatic scheme looks striking when the silhouette of each plant is showcased against the stucco wall

Although the plants themselves were of a similar hue, by placing them against walls of cobalt blue, yellow ochre, terracotta and olive green each specimen ‘popped’.

Each plant was well spaced from its neighbor – a practical necessity in the desert since they are competing for water. Yet this allowed the graphical shape of each plant to be appreciated in isolation creating an almost minimalistic look.

Barrel cactus with its remarkable radial pattern of spines

Short spines, long spines, orange spines, ghostly white spines. Paddle shapes, columnar pickets, pointed arrows and mounds. The variety was still there in the details although at first glance the desert may seem like a moonscape to those of us used to a completely different environment.

Whereas in the PNW we might leave snags of tall trees for wildlife and to simply lend a sculptural statement, in Tucson we saw many cacti skeletons creating the same effect

This trip provided a wonderful opportunity to learn about different design techniques and many of those ideas can be employed in our own gardens. Creating silhouettes using the contorted branching structures of trees and shrubs for example. Or a stand of vertical grasses against the solid backdrop of evergreen trees can have the same dramatic effect as the cacti against the sky. If you would like more ideas on designing silhouettes, especially valuable in the winter landscape of more temperate climates, you may enjoy this article I wrote a while ago.

A simple container, well placed against a colorful backdrop allows the light to cast strong shadows

No matter where you live, it’s still all about the details.

This trip was organized by the Garden Writers Association

Fragrant Fall Favorites

Oct 14, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 4 Comments Tags: birds, climbers, fall, fragrance, perennials, shrubs, wildlife

The fragrant white flowers of glossy abelia have bright pink sepals in fall and winter. Photo credit; Taken at Wisley Gardens by thehardyperennial.com

Many of you enjoyed last week’s post on the katsura tree, loving its caramel apple scent as much as I do. Did you know that there are also several shrubs and perennials which spice up the fall garden with their fragrance too?

Glossy abelia (Abelia x grandiflora) is a somewhat sprawling shrub with tubular white pink flowers along its arching stems all summer and fall. It is evergreen in many areas, but does lose a proportion of its glossy green leaves here in the colder parts of Seattle, although not before they gain a wonderful rosy glow. Adored by hummingbirds, I like to use this as an informal hedge or screen. For the tidier minded gardener abelia can be sheared for size and shape, but I can’t help feeling that if God had intended it to have a poodle or pompom cut He would have created it that way. Just saying. Plant it in full sun or light shade – and put the shears away so it can spread to 5’ tall and wide. Hardy in zones 6-9.

Dianthus 'Firewitch' may be small in size but BIG in fragrance. Photo credit; Missouri Botanical Garden

Cheddar pinks (Dianthus sp.) –how can something so small smell so powerful? While there are many different Dianthus available, it is the low growing rockery group which readily come to mind when I think about reliable fall flowers and fragrance. In fact ‘Firewitch’ seems to have flowers for at least 7 months of the year in my garden! While each hot pink flower may be petite there is nothing subtle about its spicy perfume. Use it in containers or at the front of a garden border in full sun and well-drained soil. Hardy in zones 3-9.

Sweet autumn clematis may be a thug, but it is a beautiful and fragrant thug at least. Photo credit; Wikimedia Commons

Sweet autumn clematis (Clematis ternifolia) – love it or hate it, the sweet autumn clematis lives up to its name. Whether you consider it vigorous or invasive, there’s no denying that this delightful vine has considerable potential to swallow an arbor but if you’re up for the challenge then you will be rewarded with weeks of starry white flowers exuding a sweet vanilla scent. Plant on a sturdy structure in full sun and well-drained soil – then get out of the way! Hardy in zones 4-10 it will grow 20’ in a single season.

A contemporary white, yellow and black scheme with daphne 'Eternal Fragrance' as the star. It is partnered with 'Delta Dawn' coral bells, black mondo grass and white 'bud bloomer' heather which echoes the color of the daphne's flowers

Daphne ‘Eternal Fragrance’ (Daphne transatlantica ‘Eternal Fragrance’)– When someone mentions ‘daphne’ I immediately think of winter daphne (Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’) with its 3” long elliptical green leaves edged in creamy yellow and an intoxicating perfume that fills the February air. This week I was looking for the perfect fragrant plant for a container and came across ‘Eternal Fragrance’ daphne. It has smaller green leaves than the winter daphne and although its main flowering period is in spring it blooms reliably through fall. Certainly the one I found was a mass of buds – the promise of many heady weeks to come! Try it as a centerpiece in a container which receives afternoon shade and place it near a door or window to enjoy the fall fragrance. Hardy in zones 6-9 but may be deciduous below 0’F.

The unassuming fragrant olive has an unforgettable perfume. Photo credit; Monrovia

Fragrant tea tree, Fragrant olive or Tea olive (Osmanthus fragrans) – my blogging friend Deb Elliott wrote recently about this large evergreen shrub and its apricot-like fragrance. Take a side trip to Deb’s Garden and see what she enjoys most about this fall beauty and how it can be incorporated into your own garden.

At this time of year those of us who live in colder climates begin our gardening hibernation – enjoying our garden through the windows rather than from the patio. I challenge you to pull out a sweater and take a sensory walk around your garden. Do you still have herbs and vegetables to taste? Are there wispy grasses to run your fingers through? Are the birds flitting in and out of your bushes enjoying the berry and seed head buffet? Stand still, close your eyes and breathe deeply. What scents drift across the autumnal air to tease you? If there is little to note then consider the katsura tree I introduced you to last week or select one of the plants featured here.

Whether you have acreage or just a container garden there is always room for fragrance in fall.

Fall Favorite – The Katsura Tree

Oct 7, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 8 Comments Tags: deciduous trees, fall, foliage, fragrance, trees

Photo credit; Blue River Nursery

I must have raised a few eyebrows as I went around the nursery sniffing like a bloodhound. I just couldn’t figure it out. I knew I could smell cotton candy (UK translation – candy floss) but there were none to be seen, yet that sweet sugar and cinnamon fragrance was wafting all around me. In confusion I mentioned it to one of the nursery staff who laughed and pointed me to the towering tree above me – a katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum). Sure enough the richly colored, heart-shaped leaves that were falling like confetti all around me were the source of this wonderful fall fragrance.

That was about 16 years ago and I’ve been waiting for a garden to plant one in ever since, finally getting my wish last year. As my husband and I walked through the field to choose the perfect tree last fall I found myself dreaming of hot apple cider and pumpkin bread! Maybe this tree will prove a bad idea for the waist line.

Conditions

Th weeping form of the katsura has yellow fall color. Photo; Creative Commons

Katsura trees are native to Asia but have become a popular tree in many other parts of the world where they can be afforded moisture retentive soil, full sun or very light shade, rich acidic soil and temperatures which fall in the range -30’F to 20’F (USDA zones 4-9)

How to use

In the garden they look perfect lining a driveway, as a specimen lawn tree or providing height in a large mixed border. Here in the Seattle area they are also a popular sidewalk tree where their roots do not cause the damage of older choices such as cherry trees and their pyramidal form allows easy passage of both vehicles and pedestrians (although in maturity they tend to assume a more spreading shape).

Cultivars

'Red Fox' has wonderful burgundy foliage all spring and summer. Photo credit; McAuliffe's Valley Nursery

The typical katsura tree matures at over 40’ and 25’ wide, growing 12-18” per year but smaller gardens can take advantage of the newer introduction ‘Red Fox’. This has a tight columnar form clothed in deep burgundy leaves during spring and summer before transforming to shades of harvest gold in fall when they release their characteristic burnt sugar aroma. The bark is a shaggy brown.

The foliage of the dwarf 'Heronswood Globe' is a soft light green. Photo; Creative Commons

‘Heronswood Globe’ is a dwarf, rounded form which grows to just 20’ x 20’ and has green foliage which turns shades of rose and apricot in autumn. This is a low growing tree, often with its branches just 2’ off the ground.

Tiers of weeping branches on the pendulous form of katsura. Photo credit; J. Frank Schmidt & Son.

The weeping katsura is a beautiful tree with a dense crown and blue-green foliage which turns bright yellow in fall. It grows slowly to 20’ tall and 15’ wide

Year round interest

Although perhaps at it’s finest in fall, the katsura has plenty to contribute in other seasons too. Spring sees the emergence of reddish-purple leaves which slowly darken to an attractive blue-green. The winter silhouette is a welcome addition to the winter garden as is the handsome bark.

Wherever you plant them be sure it is somewhere that you can enjoy their fragrance – and watch your visitors try to identify the source of that wonderful spicy aroma!

Similar but Different – the art of observation.

Sep 30, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 2 Comments Tags: combinations, conifers, container design, design, foliage, shrubs

A miniature forest? They may all be conifers but with such a wonderful blend of colors and foliage shapes they each have something to offer

Sometimes we need to be thrown a challenge to discover something new. This week I received sample of several trees, shrubs and perennials to try in my fall container designs. They were sent to me by Qualitree, a grower in British Columbia after they read my recent article on Great Conifers for Fall Containers. When I say ‘several’ I mean lots. And lots. Beautiful conifers, colorful heathers, three lavender grown as standards, a tray of golden rosemary and more.

The challenge!

'Wilma's Gold' rosemary and 'Silver sand' cushion bush may have very similar textures but the striking color differences makes them fun partners, especially when planted in a lime green container

I set all the boxes down and stood back to admire these unexpected treasures, my mind already whirring as to combinations, color schemes and containers selection when I realized something. Almost every plant had a fine texture. From the needle-like foliage of yew, lavender and rosemary, and the tiny scale-like leaves of heathers to the feathery sprays of ‘Ellwoodii’ false cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Ellwoodii’). All beautiful but also very similar so how was I going to do these great plants justice, test their winter hardiness and still create exciting combinations? By doing what I teach others to do – looking at the details.

Explore color

Notice the subtle golden variegation on 'Empire' false cypress

Nuances of color were the key. I began to look closer (a camera helps to focus one’s attention) and noticed that ‘Empire’ false cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Empire) had a subtle golden yellow variegation. The soft ‘Snow White’ Port Orchard cedar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Snow White’) was a pretty blue-green which still retained a whisper of the creamy white spring growth. In contrast the rich green toned ‘DeGroot’s Spire’ arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘DeGroot’s Spire) was taking on its winter blush of burgundy while one of my favorites ‘Forever Goldie’ which I introduced you to recently was shining in the most vivid gold with just a hint of orange that will deepen as the temperatures drop.

Some color differences are easier to spot. Silvery white cushion bush (Calocephalus brownii ‘Silversand’) is stunning and although only an annual its network of striking wiry stems can be enjoyed until a hard frost.

This heather has chartreuse foliage so even when flowering is over it will contrast well

Heathers can be tricky to use in mixed container designs since once the flowering is over their foliage isn’t terribly exciting. Since most cultivars have a relatively short bloom time this can be especially problematic and the very reason I look for those with colorful foliage. However, I’m excited to try these new Bud Bloomers from Qualitree. They don’t set seed which means that they flower for much longer. I’ll let you know how I get on but as I consider their use I’m still mindful of the foliage color which ranges from very dark green to gold.

Cerise heather, bright golden yellow 'Forever Goldie' arborvitae, and the gold and green variegated 'Empire' false cypress combine beautifully with the wispy 'Sirocco' pheasant tail grass.

Consider leaf shape

So I began to experiment. I combined needle foliage with splayed fans, scales with feathers, lighter tones with dark, stiffly upright forms with looser shapes and was pleasantly surprised at the outcome.

'Goshiki' false holly brings variety to a blend of heathers and conifers

The results were tapestries which were both interesting and soothing in their simplicity. It was almost like creating miniature landscapes.

Blend with partners

I did add a few broader leaved plants such as ‘Goshiki’ false holly (Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’) since its green and gold foliage blended so well.

I couldn't resist adding this pansy - such a perfect color to complement the heather and cushion bush

I also tucked in a few pansies here and there to repeat the color of the heathers in case they didn’t flower as long as I hoped! Some of the more complex designs even have spring bulbs tucked away. (Well I can’t be too restrained can I?!)

The bottom line is that you can create beautiful designs with very similar textures. It’s all about the details. Challenge yourself.

Great Bulbs for Fall Containers

Sep 23, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 4 Comments Tags: bulbs, container design, deer, design, fall, foliage, spring, wildlife

Photo credit; tinywhitedaisies.tumblr.com

It’s a bittersweet moment when you have to brace yourself to pull out all that lush summer growth, knowing that the replacements will inevitably look puny by comparison. I’ve just grappled with yards of overly – exuberant sweet potato vine, cutting back its long chartreuse tendrils of heart shaped leaves, digging deep in the containers to find the funky purple tubers. Some leaves were scorched by unseasonably late hot sun, others were limp from chilly nights. They would look reasonable for another week or so but my own schedule dictated that today was The Day for changing out the pots.

Ironically containers planted for fall and winter have to provide us with almost 8 months of color (late September to mid- May) as opposed to summer pots which strut their stuff from May until Mid-September (or late October if you’re a procrastinator). So how can we get a serious color punch without our favorite summer annuals?

Spring bulbs are the answer. By tucking them into containers as you are planting pots this fall you are burying treasure which will be revealed in a few months’ time.

Shade containers

Although most bulbs need 6 or more hours of direct sun to bloom well there are a few that will perform satisfactorily in shadier spots.

Snowdrops are one of the earliest bulbs to bloom. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

Snowdrops are perfect for adding a little sparkle. There are a couple of different species typically available but I usually select Galanthus elwesii which is taller at 12” than the 6” common snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis). Plant at least five clustered together.

Winter aconite is as pretty in a container as it is in the garden. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) is a fabulous deer resistant bulb that can be used to naturalize in sunny or partially shaded gardens. Its bright buttercup-like flowers add a lovely splash of color at the edge of a shady container but at just 3” tall be sure that the adjacent plants will not hide these dainty beauties.

Jeanne d'Arc crocus is pure white with rich orange stamens.

Crocus prefer lots of sun but if your containers get full morning sun they should still bloom nicely. Typically available in shades of purple, yellow and white it’s easy to find something to work with your color scheme. Look for the larger flowered varieties such as Jeanne d’Arc (white), Pickwick (lilac and white stripes) or Flower Record (deep purple).

Sun containers

I usually look for dwarf varieties of sun loving bulbs.

Tete a Tete dwarf daffodils repeat the yellow colors of the grass and pansy

Daffodils (Narcissus)– the petite Tete a Tete are well known and are great value since each bulb has multiple flower stalks. The slightly taller February Gold and Jetfire with its orange trumpet are also great candidates since their flower size won’t overpower the other container plants.

Fragrant Erlicheer Narcissus. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

For a white color scheme the fragrant Thalia is a good choice or Erlicheer which has double white flowers with a hint of buttery yellow and also smells wonderful.

Juan tulip. Photo credit; The Plant Expert

Tulips – there are many shorter varieties of tulips with attractive leaves – an important consideration for container garden design. Many of these also have multiple flowers per bulb so you get a lot of color from a small amount of space. Red Riding Hood (red flowers with purple striped leaves). Calypso (orange-red flowers edged with yellow and a black base with purple striated foliage) and Juan (orange with a yellow base and purple mottled leaves) are three of my favorites.

Princess Irene are always on my shopping list for fall containers

Where greater height is needed Princess Irene is my #1 choice. Rich reddish-orange flowers with a purple flare are set off by the blue-green foliage. This partners well with dark foliage or lime green accents.

Gorgeous ruffled peony type flowers of the tulip Foxtrot. Photo credit; Brent and Becky's Bulbs

For a softer color scheme Foxtrot is stunning with double peony type blooms in varying shades of rose or New Design has pretty pink flowers and green leaves with white margins. Don’t be afraid to cut off a few leaves if they spoil the look of the overall container design.

The richly hued Woodstock hyacinth. Photo credit; Bissett Nursery corp

Hyacinths – a single hyacinth can perfume a room so imagine what a few in a container can do! With colors from white, pink, blue to purple and peach there’s bound to be one that is just right. Woodstock has long been a personal favorite with its rich burgundy color, closely followed by the hot pink Jan Bos.

JS Dijt iris seems almost velvety. Photo credit; Central Texas Gardener blog

Dwarf iris (Iris reticulata) are a less common choice yet at 6” tall they are perfect for containers. I especially like the midnight blue JS Dijt with a central yellow flash when paired with golden foliage or even yellow pansies. Pixie is similar but a little lighter.

Grape hyacinths (Muscari) are also a welcome change, their strappy foliage having a grass like appearance at the edge of a container while the clusters of grape-like flowers in shades of blue or white are pretty.

Design considerations

Purple crocus have grown up through a layer of pansies to add a fresh spring look

Match the color of your bulbs to the overall color scheme of your container design for a designer look.
Height – keep shorter bulbs to the front of your containers
Tuck bulbs in between permanent plants or even underneath finely rooted plants such as pansies. The spring shoots will squeeze through and to the side of these easily.
Plant bulbs under seasonal color spots such as chrysanthemums or asters to give a second tier of color. Ideally remove these perennials when they have died down and gently backfill the hole with a little extra soil to cover the exposed bulbs, although this is not essential.

Tulips and grape hyacinths keep purple coral bells company in this design. Credit; Fine Gardening magazine

Planting tips

Add organic fertilizer under the bulbs when planting to promote root growth.If your garden is popular with squirrels you may want to consider adding chicken mesh or a special bulb cage to protect the bulbs.What about a container with tiers of bulbs that will bloom sequentially in spring? Try the lasagna planting method.

My favorite bulb growers – not only do they have excellent quality and size bulbs they are wonderful people. Can’t do better than that.

Brent and Becky’s Bulbs

Great Conifers for Fall Containers

Sep 16, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 7 Comments Tags: combinations, conifers, container design, foliage

'Louie' eastern white pine takes center stage in this artistic arrangement. Photo and design credit Alyson Ross-Markley

Are your coleus collapsing and your petunias in a funk? Then it’s time to rethink those container gardens and freshen them up for fall.

The question I am asked most frequently is “What can I add for fall and winter that will be evergreen?” Well I could write a book answering that question – so let’s just focus on one group of plants that will always perform – conifers.

Tall ones, fat ones, fluffy ones and spreading ones – there’s a conifer for every situation and every design need. Want something colorful? Not a problem! There are selections in shades of green, blue, gold, russet and even variegated forms. Here are a few of my favorites.

'Louie' is as huggable as a golden teddy bear!

‘Louie’ eastern white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Louie’ )

If ever I had conifer lust I have it now. This fluffy golden teddy bear of a conifer calls my name from across the nursery and like a child in the toy store I just have to go and give it a hug. This wonderful slow growing pine changes from a soft yellow-green in summer to vivid golden yellow in mid-winter. Obviously this would be stunning in the landscape but planting a young one in a container by your front door would really welcome friends with winter cheer. This needs full or part sun to thrive and will eventually grow to 10’ tall and 8’ wide.

I wouldn’t plant anything else in the pot with this beauty. If you would like additional fanfare add a couple of accent pots and fill those with interesting foliage and seasonal color spots such as the bolder leaved coral bells (Heuchera) but be sure to repeat the gold somewhere to tie the group together. Zones 4-9.

Jean's Dilly spruce has a tight columnar shape. Photo credit; Iseli Nursery

‘Jean’s Dilly’ spruce (Picea glauca ‘Jean’s Dilly’) – a slender version of the popular Alberta spruce, this has a tight conical form which lends itself well to more formal or traditional designs. It would work well as a centerpiece in an urn surrounded by mounding or trailing companions, or in a wide bowl shaped container accompanied by bright pansies and golden foliage such as the grass-like golden sweet flag (Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’). This needs full sun and is hardy in zones 3-7 where it will grow to 4’ tall and 2’ wide.

Four years ago this plum yew was added to the container. Seasonal accents come and go but this is the mainstay

Upright Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Fastigiata’). Yew (Taxus) is often recommended for shade containers or those which receive only limited morning un. Plum yew is even more shade tolerant and its dark green needles make a wonderful starting point to a container design. Pair it with bright chartreuse coral bells, hellebores, bishop’s hat (Epimedium) and trailing vinca for a show-stopping combination.

Blue Star juniper has a remarkable steel blue color which pairs beautifully with burgundy tones.

Blue star juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’)– the bright steel-blue color of this prostrate conifer looks fabulous with burgundy making it a favorite of mine with red leaved Japanese maples. In fall this color scheme can be continued by using a young ‘Red Beauty’ holly with its glossy evergreen foliage and abundant red berries. This conifer needs to be at the edge of a container, with other plants providing the height. Take a look at the cover of my new book for a stunning example. Full sun. Hardy in zones 4-8

'Forever Goldie' takes on orange tints in winter but is otherwise golden year round

‘Forever Goldie’ arborvitae, but may also listed as western red cedar (Thuja plicata ‘Forever Goldie’) – another huggable, golden conifer but unlike the pine this one won’t shed needles in spring!

'Forever Goldie' is more golden in summer

Although this will eventually become BIG its early years can be spent in a medium sized pot. The foliage on this conifer has a sculptural quality to it and in winter it takes on a beautiful orange cast. Partner this with rich purple and blue for a serious color punch on a chilly autumnal day. Scorch resistant even in full sun. Hardy to zones 3-7

The delicate Cole's prostrate Canadian hemlock is popular for miniature gardening, container gardening and landscape design.

‘Cole’s Prostrate’ Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis ‘Cole’s Prostrate’) In summer we rely on edging plants such as million bells or trailing geraniums. What can we use in the colder months? Low growing or prostrate forms of conifers work well in this situation. Just because the label tells you that in 10 years’ time it will be 3’ wide doesn’t need to prevent you from enjoying it for a season or two while it is smaller. Just transplant it to a bigger container or the garden when it gets too big for the space. I love the hemlock foliage – it has a wonderful casual look. Look closely and you’ll notice that each needle is a different length and set at a different angle giving it a “rufty-tufty” look – or at least that’s how I describe it! Others might just call it scruffy; I say it has personality! Try this dwarf, prostrate form which is hardy in zones 3-7

What conifers do you like to use in your containers?

Gaura – a whirl of tiny butterflies

Sep 2, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 15 Comments Tags: combinations, cut flowers, deer, design, drought tolerant, foliage, perennials, shrubs, trees

A soft haze of whirling butterflies dances around a whitebarked Himalayan birch.

Movement is important in a garden. It lends an informal atmosphere and softens otherwise stiff plantings. Grasses are often used for this, especially taller varieties but a few perennials are also perfectly suited for the job and one of the best is whirling butterflies (Gaura lindheimeri). The common name is a perfect description for these fluttering white flowers which are in constant movement on tall wiry stems. (Other common names include wand flower and bee blossom).

'Pink Fountain' grows to 2' and is hardy in zones 6-9. Photo credit; southern growers

The species has white flowers, flushed with pink which emerge all summer long from soft pink buds giving a hazy bicolor effect. In form it resembles a large lavender with a basal clump of narrow foliage in mid green from which rises a fountain of 3-4’ flowering stems. Each plant easily fills a 3’ diameter space – good value from a $10 plant! However there are many other cultivars now available in various sizes and colors. Here is just a sampling;

‘Passionate Rainbow’; variegated burgundy, pink, creamy white and gold foliage, mid pink flowers, upright habit, 2’. Zones 7-9
‘Siskiyou Pink’; green foliage, pink flowers, fountain, 2-3’. Zones 5-9
‘Crimson Butterflies’; a recent hybrid from ‘Siskiyou Pink’ with burgundy foliage, deep pink flowers, upright habit, dwarf at 2’. Zones 5-10
‘Dauphine’; the giant! Green foliage, pink and white flowers, 5-7’ fountain. Zones 5-9

Companions

At first glance whirling butterflies may seem ideally suited to a casual cottage garden and indeed I have used them that way. Their delicate appearance softens stiffer companions such as coneflowers (Echinacea sp.) and the soft pink and white color scheme is beautiful, lasting for many months. In such an environment it is a ‘mingler’.

'Magical Fantasy' weigela is enhanced by the dreamy pink and white backdrop of the similarly colored whirling butterflies

In my current garden I have used it to surround a whitebarked Himalayan birch (Betula utilis var. jacquemontii) which enhances the already stunning white tree bark. These adaptable perennials also make a great background plant for the green and white variegated ‘Magical Fantasy’ weigela (Weigela florida ‘Kolsunn’)Unlike older cultivars this weigela has crisp white margins to its leaves – perfect for combining with whirling butterflies. Tubular pink flowers on the shrub further strengthen the association with either white or pink cultivars of the perennial.

Silver, purple and blue foliage or flowers also form easy companions. Blue ‘Rozanne’ geranium works well as the two weave in and out of one another and billowing ‘Silver Mound’ wormwood (Artemisia schmidtiana ‘Silver Mound’) adds a shimmery touch.

Silver and purple make easy companions

Shorter cultivars are ideal for using as the ‘thriller’ in container plantings or even in a hanging basket. For both of these designs I rely heavily on good foliage so find the deep pink or variegated foliage forms of whirling butterflies especially useful.

What do they need to thrive? Very little. They are drought tolerant and deer resistant – two of my top priorities. Mine have barely had any water this summer and look amazing. Be careful not to add excessive mulch or compost around the crowns and avoid overly rich soil which stays wet in winter; just average, well drained soil is fine. Other than that, full sun and a chair nearby to enjoy the steady drone of bees which get drunk daily on the pollen!

This backlit smoke bush adds 'substance' to the airy flowers

One key point to remember is about pruning. Being a woody perennial it retains a twiggy structure after the leaves fall in autumn. Do not cut this down. Wait until spring and look to see where the uppermost buds are on the stems and cut just above those. The twigs help protect the crown during the winter. I find that there is usually fresh basal growth in spring as well so the plant quickly regains its former size.

Some cultivars seem to self-seed more than others but extras are easy to pull up. there is no need to deadhead.

How many do you have room for?

The Subtle Beauty of Vine Maples

Aug 26, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 7 Comments Tags: container design, deciduous trees, foliage, shrubs, trees

Twisted, sinewy branches give the vine maple its name, but to us this is our Hobbit Tree

We have a very special tree – The Hobbit Tree. Deep in the forest at the edge of our property there is an old gnarly vine maple (Acer circinatum), defying gravity and dripping with moss. It was all but buried under blackberries and reed canary grass and surrounded by alders and several Douglas fir trees. My husband discovered – and named it, while clearing out the brush one day.

Its contorted shape was so improbable and being set in a shadowy green grove that he could almost believe he had stepped into the pages of Tolkien – hence its name The Hobbit Tree.

A scene which can be seen in many parts of the PNW in fall as vine maples take the limelight

In its’ natural environment the vine maple is an understory plant – either a large shrub or small tree depending upon your perspective, slowly growing to 30’ tall and 20’ wide. It can be found in quite dense shade under a canopy of towering conifers in which case its growth habit will be rather leggy like ours. At the edge of a woodland where it receives more sun the habit will be more rounded.

Typically vine maples are multi trunked branching from close to the base which creates an interesting silhouette, especially in winter when the smooth olive green bark is revealed. In spring bright green leaves unfurl, held on red stems, each circular leaf pleated like a tiny fan. The color deepens to mid-green by summer but is perhaps best known for its array of fiery fall colors which can start as early as August. As autumn progresses they make a spectacular sight dotted on the hillsides surrounded by evergreens.

New leaves slowly stretch out. Credit; Chattermarks.ncascades.org

Such beauty need not be limited to the natural landscape of course. Due to their small size they are well suited to the home garden as specimen trees or transitional elements. I have used them many times in gardens which back onto natural habitats such as wetlands or green belts. In narrow spaces I seek out single trunked trees or one of the smaller cultivars. Vine maples are also useful where soil erosion is a problem such as stream banks.

Cultivars

'Pacific fire' boasts red stems as well as fall color

Pacific Fire came onto the market a few years ago, celebrated for its vivid salmon pink bark which rivals the popular coral bark maple (Acer palmatum ‘Sango-kaku’). Or it could be an alternative to the invasive forms of red twig dogwoods. It is much smaller than the species at 6’ x 6’ yet has the same attractive leaf.

The foliage on 'Monroe' is finely cut - quite different from the usual vine maple. Photo credit; East Bay Wilds Native Plant Nursery

Monroe will be hard to track down but worth the hunt. It’s leaves are more finely dissected and resemble a Japanese maple. It has a more open branching structure and grows a little smaller than the species.

The foliage on 'Little Gem' is a miniature version of the species

Little gem. I spotted this at Dragonfly Farms Nursery in Kingston, WA just yesterday and of course it leapt into the back of my car before I knew it! This is a witches broom (a funky, twiggy growth off a regular tree) found in Vancouver BC and promises to be a spectacular shrub growing to about 4’ a 4’. Mine has leaves about 1/3 the size of the regular tree and the bark is colorful with both red and green evident. I’m going to place this as I would a small Japanese maple – adjacent to a boulder or water perhaps. A backdrop of either deep green or burgundy would showcase the foliage the best and definitely close to a pathway so I can enjoy it. Vine maples scorch in hot afternoon sun so I need to place it where it is either in dappled light or at least just has direct sun in the morning. It would also make a wonderful container plant.

'Little Gem' promises to be a delightful colorful dwarf cultivar

I am often inspired by Nature and this little maple is a case in point. The highly ornamental Japanese maples are outstanding and I have quite a few (with plans for a few more!), but there is something to be said for looking at your surroundings, seeing what does well and emulating that. Not every plant in your garden has to scream “Look at me!”. Sometimes a more subtle beauty is needed.

Cultural requirements

Mature size – rarely exceeds 30’; usually 10-12’ tall and wide in a home garden

Soil – fertile, moisture retentive soil is ideal but this tough tree is pretty adaptable. Its native soil is acidic

Sun/shade – avoid afternoon soon

Water – drought tolerant after a few years in moisture retentive soil

Companion planting – ferns, hostas and hellebores are all perfect partners. ‘Ivory Prince’ hellebore looks beautiful massed underneath,since the apple green in the flowers repeats the trees bark color.

Hardiness – USDA 6-9

Resources

12 Months Later

Aug 19, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 14 Comments Tags: combinations, deer, design, drought tolerant, foliage, fragrance, grasses, perennials, shrubs, trees

A tapestry of colors and textures - August 2012

Is it really only that long?

I suspect like many gardeners I’m better at writing a To Do list than celebrating the Ta Da moments. I’m so busy worrying about the deer munching on the end of an elderberry branch (and yes they do eat elderberries), that I forget to look around and take in the big picture. Fact is we’ve come a long way.

Who says deer don't eat elderberries - mine even eat RICIN!!

The real beginning was three years ago; October 30th 2009 to be exact, when we moved to this modest one storey house sitting on 5 flat acres. I could write a book on the various adventures we’ve had as we’ve renovated the house. Dead mice in the walls, frogs croaking under the house, termite eaten woodwork and a vole who suddenly appeared in the bathroom with me, arriving by way of the heating vent in the floor. Eek!

August 2011 - weeds were gone and the cabin moved but that was about it

But this is a garden blog. You’ve heard me say before that the best feature in the landscape was a huge dead tree. That’s because the house was being swallowed by Bishop’s weed, as was the front garden . There was a nice long border to one side of the property but it was only 3′ deep before dissolving into cottonwoods, reed canary grass and an interesting blend of beer cans and chunks of concrete.

Besides that the land was a seasonally mosquito ridden swamp. I even tried spraying most of the 5 acres with garlic the first summer …, let’s just say that wasn’t my most shining moment. Still plenty of mosquitoes, no witches and my son threatening to leave home since I’d thoughtfully sprayed around his window. Oops

So how and where was I going to create my dream gardens?

Island border

Around the dead tree. Except that the land around it was a less than attractive tapestry of blackberries and weeds. It was also a swamp from November through the end of June.

I’ve told part of this story before. You can read how we addressed the drainage, moved the cabin and built the arbor by following the links. 12 months ago we had just unloaded 100 yards of topsoil and planted our first tree.

Here it is today.

August 2012. The cabin is now nestled into the (young) landscape

Paths are laid, a bench installed, boulders moved (with great difficulty) from behind the barn, and layers of wonderful color.

A simple wooden bench will soon be shaded by the golden locust tree and backed by 'Karl Foerster' grasses. If the deer leave the elderberry alone that will also be part of the backdrop.

Some things thriving, others not so much as we discovered a few spots around the perimeter became catchment areas for winter rains.

And there’s still a lot of bare soil – not the Karen style! However we have included plenty of four season interest and used drought tolerant, (relatively) deer resistant plants.

Warm sunset shades predominate. This golden conifer shines like a beacon all year

I’ve also had great fun playing with color combinations.

Vibrant orange Crocosmia around the paperbark maple accents the trees rich mahogany peeling bark yet doesn't obscure it in winter

Front garden

August 2011 - the front dust bowl...

12 months ago this was barren. Every single tree, shrub, perennial and bulb had been removed. Those which were riddled with Bishop’s weed were disposed of. Others were washed to bare roots then quarantined in a corner of the vegetable garden until I was sure they were clean. We had installed a new path and patio at this point but sat sipping our wine surrounded by….nothing.

August 2012. Today it is a medley of soft, airy textures

Now it’s a tranquil space. Soothing shades of blue, white and silver predominate. The air is fragrant with daphne, lavender and thyme. Sounds of bees mingle with those of hummingbirds and small birds splashing in the fountain.

The white bark of the birch tree is emphasized by the haze of white flowers

The dancing white flowers of ‘whirling butterflies’ (Gaura sp.) sway gently in the slightest breeze forming fleeting partnerships with silver wormwood (Artemesia) and periwinkle blue ‘Rozanne’ geranium.

Not that it’s perfect. Some lavender plants died. Voles ate some plants and cut worms others.

I thought I'd be 'safe' with sedums - obviously not!

Then there are the sedums which have either been eaten by very tall rabbits or our deer – large hoof prints would suggest the latter.

Still despite those little hiccups and a few remaining bare patches we are finally proud to share the progress with friends. It looks like a well-loved home nestled into a thoughtfully designed landscape. There’s more to do but that’s OK. For now we can at least say…Ta Da!

Beachscaping

Aug 12, 2012 By Karen Chapman in Uncategorized 10 Comments Tags: design, drought tolerant, foliage, grasses, Nature, shrubs

Dungeness State Park, WA - one of our favorite places to relax

There’s something about being at the ocean. Stress seems to get swept away on the sea breeze, and time moves at a slower pace allowing us to savor that novel we’ve been meaning to read. Suddenly ‘sitting’ seems like an activity rather than a luxury and nothing seems quite as important as it did before.

We‘re not all fortunate enough to enjoy waterfront property, but even if we’re landlocked there are ways to capture that carefree ‘beach style’ in our garden.

I’m not suggesting having a truck load of sand dumped at your home to create buggy-worthy dunes, nor adding a proliferation of nautical themed accessories – fishing lure styled mail boxes or geranium filled row boats in the flower beds. (If you like that stuff, go for it! Not my style though).

Take your cue from Nature itself. It doesn’t need dressing up. It simply is.

Pathways

This path was created by filling a 6" deep channel with sand - how easy is that? Photo credit; Bruce Botnick, Sunset magazine

I love those beaches where you approach along a sandy trail, turn the final corner and suddenly come across an expansive view to take your breath away. Recreate that path with crushed rock – decomposed granite is a favorite, or a simple wooden boardwalk. If your pathway leads through a heavily planted area a simple mulch make look right. Create a sense of anticipation and be sure to sweep the path around a curve or a large shrub.

Plant palette

Nature inspired design at its best. A simple winding pathway through stands of grasses and low growing perennials. Design and photo credit; Lankford Associates, WA

Think what grows naturally in those windswept locations with fast draining soil – that will give you some ideas as to what will look ‘right’. Grasses are an easy choice and the Mexican feather grass (Stipa tenuissima) is the perfect height and form to give that beach feel at just 18” tall and wide. It thrives in full sun and doesn’t need rich soil. It also self-seeds freely which helps to avoid looking overly ‘designed’. For something taller the stiffly upright ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass (Calamagrostis acutiflora) is sturdy enough to withstand strong winds yet still moves nicely in the breeze, whispering like the marram grass on the dunes.

To add flowers into this mix consider the low growing forms of pinks (Dianthus) e.g. ‘Firewitch’, thrift (Armeria sp.) and fleabane (Erigeron sp.). These look perfect in a beachscape. Taller perennials could include Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) or catmint (Nepeta sp.). Sculptural forms of pine can also look wonderful and are native to many coastal regions.

If your garden is shadier don’t despair. Many beaches are reached after first walking through a shaded forest, especially here in the Pacific Northwest. Native flowering shrubs such as wild roses and oceanspray (Holodiscus discolor) lend height and sedges (Carex sp.) can substitute for the sun loving grasses.

No garden? No problem. Capture the essence of coastal garden design with simple planters. Photo and design credit; Lankford Asssociates, WA

If your soil seems unsuitable you can always use containers to create your beach garden. Use wide, low planters in neutral colors to keep the focus on the plants. Adding extra perlite to the mix and/or using a potting medium which is low in organic content will enable you to grow those plants which prefer fast draining, low fertility soils.

Boulders, rocks and pebbles

A few well-placed boulders can really help set the scene, especially if plants are nestled up to them. Arrange river rocks and small stones around the boulders in such a fashion as to suggest erosion, with the smallest pebbles spilling over onto the patio to achieve a more natural look.

Destination

The grassy boardwalk leading to the waters edge invites guests to explore at a leisurely pace. Well placed boulders provide additional seating for enjoying the firepit

So you’ve walked a short trail past boulders and plants – don’t let the destination be an anti-climax! An open vista is of course ideal but not always possible, so focus on keeping the destination simple. Remember that Nature is our inspiration and the beach is not a kaleidoscope of brightly colored flowers. Keep the sitting area uncluttered with minimal planting consisting of just one or two species. Add seating – weathered Adirondack chairs look perfect or simple canvas deck chairs. Perhaps you have room for a fire pit to toast marshmallows as the stars come out?

Now sit back, close your eyes and listen for the rhythmic whoosh of the waves as your cares are washed away.

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